not for everyone

In my opinion, in order to be a well informed and top of the game person, you need to read and hear everything even if you don't like it. That means reading articles about Wal-Mart, going to your local Old Navy and have your eyes open for anything that includes mass apparel. Now, I know this is a bore for the fashion people, but how can you understand current fashion if you don't know what the masses are wearing? Therefore, I find it interesting to read about the big, big stores. So, it came as no surprise when the biggest and wealthiest of stores made a mistake regardsing their merchandise selection.

The skinny jean fever, which started in the spring have taken over everywhere, including the giant Wal-Mart. Then, what is the error? Well, let's face it, skinnies are not for everyone. I have always doubted that the average fashion conscious customer would pick a pair of skinnies immediately, even if they are on sale for $16.94. According to a report in WWD, skinny jeans "did not connect with many customers". Also, "they are clearing out skinny jeans from some stores". No wonder they are on sale.

at the cinema

Being a nonstop visual, artistic person can be tiring sometimes. But in a good way. Especially, when I watch films, I usually get caught up too deep with details and questioning myself if something I just saw can be a possible inspiration, theme, or simply connected to a subject that I might know of.

Films can be an excellent source of inspiration and have been for a great number of designers. I should seriously start counting how many times critics have made references to "Breakfast at Tiffany's'", "Belle de Jour", "Desperately Seeking Susan" and so on. After the movies, actresses become next "victims" of reference, because I think that if the actress was not suitable for the role, then the way she wears and handles the clothes in the movie would be just wrong. I mean, can you imagine anyone other than Catherine Deneuve wearing that iconic YSL coat and Roger Vivier flats?

All of this brings me to film posters. I have always been a big of them. Although, I do not collect them (they look quite dorm style to me when hung on walls), film posters can sometimes break or make a film for me. And no, I am not vein. This notion is being described by the fact that there have been some very good films with not so impressive posters such as "The Swimming Pool". But, this post is about good posters, so I am going to tell you which poster scored the highest score this month. It is "The Good German" with George Clooney and Cate Blanchett. It is such a refreshing idea to use vintage 40's style for the poster when they could easily go with something more generic. They took inspiration from "Casablanca", although they have inserted some current time elements such as very sharp image of Cate. But, at the end you need to keep it current.

non stop talent

Tom Ford, the king of sex appeal and unforgettable ad campaigns, lands his official web site. I love the entire vamp/vixen theme, which reminds me of the supple 50's noir/glam era. The black background, capital lettered titles without spaces between them is such a signature of what Tom stand for. While I still think he is one of the best designers of our time, he never forgets that fashion is business. And, what sells better than fragrances?

oversize

I have been playing with the oversize vibe for some time now, and I really like how these two peeps incorporated it. That vintagey looking jacket, which looks like size large, gives an excellent contrast to the straigt cut jeans/pant. And the color just pops out. Done just right.

photos:

facehunter.blogspot.com

karl's view on anorexia

Mr. Lagerfeld's idea of key concepts at Chanel s/s 07:

"The statement is about legs, and when the collection is about legs you have to show a lot of leg. The statement was this proportion, this lightness. The clothes are light; the girls are not anorexic, but the clothes are."

photo: style.com

icon

I just always love Self Service covers. They are very inspirational, original and one of a kind.

The iconic Shalom Harlow looks amazing together with sharp Raquel Zimmermann on both covers of the new Self Service. Shot by Inez & Vinoodh, I am loving the whole 80's vibe and the cut offs with one eye.

And just notice the right color of rep lipstick on Raquel that virtually matches with everything. Ge-nious.

like

I have never been one of those people who complain about US Vogue, criticize their talent or trash talk about the fashion content in the magazine. I believe that they are on target for what's happening in fashion combined with the idea of keeping in mind that this magazine is for the wide American audience. We live in a celebrity driven society where people do more voting for American Idol finalists than for a president. Therefore, editors are sort of forced to put celebrities on cover because magazines are businesses that need to generate money.

And this is the reason many people do not understand. US Vogue cannot be as forward as Italian or French Vogue. Yes, there was a time when US Vogue was in the same artistic category as its European editions, but times change. Of course, that there can always be some changes and improvements, but we all know that people in America have different approaches and views of fashion than in Europe. Which brings me to the new edition of US Vogue. I just flipped through it and what really caught me was the stellar cover. Some might call it boring, but I like it. A lot. It's powerful and strong--just like Cate Blanchett is. Also, I like the editorial with her as it shows some good photos. And after a long time of absence from US Vogue, Kate Moss has a very nature, playful, free spirited editorial shot by Bruce Weber. Enjoy.

see it

You know that you've been doing something great if Barney's decides to sell your collection. That happened to Mooka Kinney, a design duo from New York.

What appealed to the buyers? The fine detailing, such as figure shaped buttons? Or perhaps the irresistible prints such as swans? Whatever it was, their collection of innocent and oh-so-girly dresses is just stellar. I am excited to see their progress and new designs in the future.

Check out all the pretty pretty dresses here.


photo:
mookakinney.com

eva and eva

Eva Green, the lead girl of the new, upcoming James Bond movie is getting more and more of my attention. I am surprised that she is not getting much publicity in the U.S. And she should. She has stunning eyes, great facial bone structure, looks very chic and attends shows such as Louis Vuitton. Could Eva be a new fashion muse?

is it really???

You know how many people say that designers are usually influenced by current art exhibitions, political events, people...Hm, is that so?

This thought occurred to me yesterday as I was looking for new art shows opening this weekend. Instantly, I thought of the major costume exhibit this year, "Anglomania", and how there were not any influences of it at the spring collections. What happened? Did designers just simply ignored the Brits, or was it a simple blockage?

at the valley

we love seeing genious designers at the disco

roses and romance are much needed

a crown for everyone

metallics are here to stay

behind a legend's mind

Did you know that many one of the Helmut's Newton photos containing long nails, came as inspiration from a lady who pumped gas in LA? She had blue nails.

Did you know that Helmut Newton did not like traveling for his background inspiration and always found something that worked within the place he was staying?

And why many photos have pools in them?

Did you know that... well, if you'd like to know more, then rent or buy this DVD on Helmut Newton. It's just genius.

I certainly enjoyed this DVD since he is one of my favorite photographers . What attracts me most to his work is the combination of strong sexualityand dramatic directness. His relaxed and unpretentious state is presented by the fact that he worked with one assistant and two cameras only. Declaring that most photographers are boring, this documentary gives you an idea of a legend who was exclusively concentrated on his own work. Mr. Newton liked placing his models in scenes that are not associated with fashion or luxury. Intensity is such a key element in his work, which is instantly recognized. And, of course today he is widely copied by many famous photographers, who try to appear original and distinct but deep down we all know who they had a mind.

it's a tech, tech world

This song has been on replay many times on Nicolas' Ghesquière and Hussein's Chalayan playlists.

dewy

Magdalena Frackowiak, who opened the YSL show has an ultimate freshness about her. Her doll like stare, miniature eyes and sharp jaw makes her a face to watch. She is a Next girl.

Wouldn't she be great for a Nivea commercial?

spectacular

Experience one of the best editorial of the year, "Eden".

We can always count on highly inspirational and utterly original editorials from W. This month, the issue is dedicated to art, with a main feature "Eden", which is a collaboration between Mario Sorrenti and Richard Tuttle. Mr. Tuttle is a phenomenal contemporary artist with a sharp, but twisted (in a good way) approach to modern art. It is interesting to see Sasha, Freja, Irina and others as art muses.

happy valley

it's all about the movement in a metallic dress

yes, it is fall but you can still wear shorts

we like pattern on anything

the future muse of christopher kane

just genious

not all belts need to thick and heavy for your dress, skinny works

red is just timeless and for every occasionwe heart a combo of versace and chanel

don't hide your pretty eye wear with contacts

scenery boy shorts and talent for posing always works for us

note to designers: day wear

FACT: Women go to work.

RESULT: This is how you do day wear. Wearable, simple, clean.

Not all women go to parties, ceremonies and such. There are way too many party dresses this season. What happened to day wear??

kate on stage

Be patient.
She shows up at the end.
And, how shy is she when she runs in the back!

--EXCLUSIVE-- kelly streit: the absolute modeling guru

Is there a secret besides some of the most powerful models of the moment? Who is behind the scenes and deals of say, Heather Marks?

Enter the amazing world of model scout, CEO and president of Mode Models, Canada's best and most prestigious modeling agency, Kelly Streit. Declared as one of the top 100 Canadians to watch, by Macleans magazine, he truly is a man to learn from. His story starts in Red Deer, Alberta, Canada where taking upon a course at a local agency, he was determined to succeed in the highly competitive world of scouting. Luck came soon after when he met Karen Lee from Elite NY, from where his career took off.

Representing genius models such as Heather Marks and Julia Dunstall, Kelly is a man with a dignyfying personality and constant enthusiasm. Here, he shares some of his thoughts, advice and career paths with The Coherent.

1. What moment/event in your life made you realize that you want to pursue scouting as a career? Could you describe that certain moment/event?
I had taken a course with a local agency and found out about the business, I loved taking pictures of cool looking people. The lady that taught me didn't seem to like me so I left. Never deterred, I decided to take what I learned and start my own agency. I was working at a local McDonald's at the time. I'd be shooting people I thought had a model look during shift. Needless to say, the corporation felt my career choice was in another direction. I took the pictures I had been shooting to a convention in Calgary. Met some of the top scouts, including Karen Lee from Elite NY and my career was born.

2. What would you define as a highlight of your career and why?
When Tricia Helfer won the 1992 Ford Supermodel of the World and when I was named one of the 100 Canadians to watch by Macleans magazine in January 1993.

3. What were the most constant struggles?
In the beginning running an agency in Alberta meant a money struggle. I had to borrow money a couple of times to keep things afloat. But that was the beginning. Once our models started to work in the international market, cashflow became more consistent. Keeping ahead of the trend is always the struggle. Forecasting the next look in models is important to keeping your models in the minds of the designers, editors and magazines.

4. Besides persistence, keen eye and utter devotion to the industry, what other qualities you think a successful scout should possess?
Lack of inhibition. You can't be shy and walk up to total strangers and tell them they should be a model.

5. What makes a model shine like your stars Heather and Julia?
Their personalities set them apart. Very different yet equally charming and contemporary. Nice people!

6. Do you think that the supermodel era (Christy, Naomi, Linda...) will ever be back?
There are girls today who are making the rates these girls were commanding but the industry took hold of the control again so it dictated rate and not the other way round. The fashion houses have stood time tests and continue to do so. They make models like these supermodels so have once again been elevating certain girls but I don't know that they'll allow that dominance again.

7. We've been seeing a lot of odd, alien-like looking girls around for a while now such as Gemma Ward, Sasha P, Tanya D... While they make for interesting editorials, the general public does not like them. Do you see this trend going strong or slowly fading?
The muse of the artist will last as long as she remains inspiring. I look at a model like Kate Moss who was shorter than the supermodel crew, with her almond eyes and imperfect teeth and Calvin Klein made her a household name. That is still possible today. The public didn't immediately embrace her either but she has stood the test of time.