happy new year!

May the new 2007 bring us good health, better jobs, worldwide peace, better Gucci collections, more stellar Jil Sander colors and much, much love.

longetivy of a product

This is a more economical and practical solution to the season's tent/puffy/balloon shape. Two major reasons rise here:

1. Getting more out of the trench coat, as this can be worn everywhere...office, going out, travel.

2. Originality because most likely not many people will own a voluminous trench coat. They will go for the dresses.

By Akris.(because they know how to make daywear exciting)

source:bergdorf goodman mag

wordly photo

This photograph brought back some memories of old 50's photos I've seen around with Marylin Monroe and Arthur Miller. What really caught my attentions is the hazy, almost light dotted technique used for taking this photo. Also, you gather a feeling of closeness from Kelis and Nas, although they are not kissing or holding each other, just like Marilyn and Arthur. I love the way they look at you.. it has so much personality. Notice Kelis' almond shaped eyes and the wonderful lighting falling on her face. What a refined and yet very classy couple.

source: ny mag

one awfully pretty dress

Pay close attention to the romantically braided chiffon on top and how it falls just right on the bias. So delicate, so attention grabbing...it can be all yours for nice $5,500 at Bergdorf. By Marchesa.

the patriot

Government agenda and a supermodel? Quite an interesting idea, if you ask me.

Legend Claudia Schiffer looks more than stunning in a campaign to promote economy in her native country, Germany. We really need to give credit to Germany's Ministry of Economy and Technology for being so creative and thoughtful for booking one of Germany's biggest and sexiest symbols for the purpose of governmental advertising. But then, their concept is not bad at all. Claudia has signature German features from her eyes to the most talked about perfect blond hair in the 90's. With this, maybe things will go brighter when one sees Claudia's beautiful but yet seductive face and body covered with a German flag.

the perfect loop

I find most pants or jeans have that standard, medium width loop. This doesn't always work well with skinny belts because they don't' fill up all the space and end up sitting too low with a big gap unfilled on your pants. Solution? More designers should make pants with shorter width loops such as Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga.

source: gq

elle's new star

Is Nina Garcia over? Did "Project Runway" hurt or advance her image? Those questions certainly make me doubt when a creative director is coming on board.

According to news reported in WWD, Elle's future fashion will be in the hands of Joe Zee, a very well known stylist who is contributing to W and was an editor in chief of cancelled Vitals and Vitals Men. There were many rumors of where Mr.Zee would be working after his two magazines were shot down. Keeping a low profile, and declaring that he's not a big partier, Joe Zee can be seen taking walks in Chelsea or grocery shopping in the area. I wonder if he suggested the neighborhood to Vogue's Sally Singer.

I applaud the decision of bringing Mr.Zee to Elle, because his overall taste and design sense is simply stellar. Also, this makes me excited for Elle and what changes he will bring. I expect new page layouts, photographers, and perhaps different sense of what style is at Elle. Most importantly, there will be a big staff change over there very very soon.

source: wwd, getty

robots are everywhere

Cute, no?

the square toe shoe debate

Long arguments and occasional clashing happens more than often between buyers and designers nowadays. Recently, my friend and I started a debate about American fashion and how there has been some improvements in menswear at the mass stores but also how there is so much that needs to be done in the long run. I, a Merchandising major, was stating that menswear design is very hard to change because people have different taste in the U.S. and also culture plays a big role in this game. If stores did not carry what men wanted, for example solid sweaters and square toe shoes, then how would stores make any profits? We need to face the fact that most of America does not have the same vision of what fashion is at the current moment as to a girl/guy living and working in the industry. Do you really think that men will start buying pointy shoes and yellow sweaters? Didn't think so.

He, a fashion design major, argues that it's the buyers fault for stocking stores with non-exciting, poor selected and utterly boring clothes and accessories. Although, I completely understand his perspective as a designer, I think he misses or forgets the concept of profit. We no longer live in a society where choice is limited and people shop at certain places. If you don't have that square toe shoe or the mocha cable knit sweater, I will go somewhere else. Therefore, with this you lose those important factors: money and customers.

Now, how can this be changed? As already stated, some slight changes are being seen. Biggest of them, is that many stores have slim fit options. Second, there are less carpenter/loose fit jeans to be seen, which is probably a result of the slim/straight silhouette that has been present for some time. I don't see big changes anytime soon at the mass level, but it would be very interesting to see what happens next.

So, my dear readers, what is your stand on this debate? Agree, disagree, why, why not...tell me!

ss is for slim shorts

The Coherent will certainly be wearing these slim shorts in the summer. Unfortunately, not Prada but some less money challenging option. Topman designers, you hear this? Although, I have to admit that I and my dear friend X, wore similar slim cuts this past summer and rolled them up. The rolled hem is an important element because it makes them more casual than formal, which puts them on the list of summer wardrobe essentials. And yes, guys with developed thighs can wear this shorts if they are straight cut instead of slim.

Can we please, please leave the cargo shorts for at least one summer? (Sigh) I wish Abercrombie and American Eagle designers would read this.

source: gq.com

the new jean

We simply cannot be counting how many times overalls have been ridiculed and I am sure that many people, including myself have considered them absolutely dull, utterly unattractive and just oh-so-Midwestern. So, let's reconsider this notion again.

The cool people at Iron Army have introduced a new pair of what I would call the 21st century overall pant with straight/skinny leg. Instead of the tacky high patch that regular overalls have, this pair has a smaller patch which is much lower and aesthetically pleasing. Also, this allows for your top to be seen much, much better. Then, they have adopted the skinny fever of suspenders that has been going for a while and attached them in denim to the patch. Result: unwanted classic turned into a hot new denim item.

Available at: Behaviour, NY

source: hx mag

yes, color!

First 2: Vogue US, rest: German Vogue

I am a very big contrast person, so you've guessed that I was in pure joy when I saw these two editorials. Also, rich, vibrant and playful color is much needed since I haven't seen this much intense color for some time. There has been lots of green these couple of last seasons and change is more than welcomed.

Therefore, how about some lemon yellow from Jil Sander? It is such a refreshing color and makes any metallics look wearable for daytime. Perhaps Medici dark red courtesy of Miu Miu? And no, red does not only look best with black and white. How about marine blue? The combinations are endless. What gets attention is playing with non-traditional and new colors. I hope you enjoy it.

photos: tfs.com

spring's hard edge

We all know that Elbaz is a genious. Season after season, he presents us something new, utterly chic and quite memorable. In this case, how could I ever forget his pvc charged collection for spring?? I absolutely loved it, and this was reconfirmed when I saw the lovely Caroline wearing one of his trench coats. Everything from the make up to how the hair slighly is blown and her soft-core yet very strong stare, makes me excited for the season. I enjoyed many of the collections in the fall, and looking forward to wonderful and inspiring editorials during this new season.

Vogue, January 2007

source: tfs.com

error?

I couldn't help but noticing this shoe in the new Vogue US editorial. What happened?? Why Sasha is not wearing the flats, but late 90's strappy spiked hills that remind me of merchandise purchased at Aldo? This looks quite out of the picture to me. What do you guys think?

people

New York Magazine tops everyone this month with a genious cover where Meryl Streep, Sofia, Helen, Ugly Betty and Borat are all in one. Perhaps, some other weeklies or even monthly magazines should take a note??

originality

Talk all you want about Karl. Criticize him, love him, don't like him. Like that matters when you see that even the Christmas lights on his 5th Avenue Fendi flagship store are in the shape of one of the house's most popular bags to date. Bravo Karl and team, and we wish more stores embraced their talent outside of the design studios.

hungry for hilary

I have been waiting for quite some time new material from Ms.Rhoda. Hilary is magical and captures your attention with that brunettes-only stare. Her dark features and little thicker than average eyebrows brings a much needed personality among today's alien/kiddy looking models. She reminds me of the early to mid 90's craze about girls looking healthy, energetic and American. Although, I would not classify her beauty as purely American, she definitely embodies that spirit.

Note to editors: Hire Hilary more and all those complaints about anorexic models might stop.

scans from Harper's January 2007

camera, lights and...??

This is what happens to beautiful clothes when bad lighting is applied. To me, this just looks weird. Look at that light on her arms and most importantly the dress...can you really see the dress? Yes, maybe?? If one has not seen it on the runway, then determining how it actually looks might be hard. I am totally understanding the entire romanticism idea behind this, but has it gone little too far. Too bright...and it looks as a June or July issue instead of January and introduction to the new collections. Oh, the beauty of it...

on the watch

With the constant openings of luxury stores, high sales volumes and evidence of grand wealth, Russia has been placed on the fashion map for a while. Eastern Europeans are increasingly keen on fashion and quite conscious of what's going on in planet fashion. If you're not so sure, just ask Gilles Mendel of J.Mendel who announced today that he is taking a trip to Moscow and meet with his loyal clients who contribute to sold out ready to wear and furs.

Therefore, it's no surprise to see chic Russian actress, Svetlana Metkina making the rounds at film premieres and other functions. Despite the fact that she is quite beautiful and healthy with a great girly smile, Svetlana has that "It" girl factor. I like her style and how is eclectic, but not over the top. She dresses exactly how someone in their 20's should.

Currently, she is in "Bobby", but I sense she might be getting more attention here. Also, I think it would be refreshing to see a new "fashion" girl without her being French or a muse to some big designer. Although there has been a progress in the field of editors who favor certain girls, for example the recent crop of many Chinese actresses, I hope there can be a spot for Svetlana. So, have your radar on for her.

hi helmut

Ah, and how 90's is this? The only slight new thing about it are the skinny cropped jeans. Look at the draping and that slouchy neckline...some bells are already ringing in my head.
I mean, even her hair looks like Alanis Morissette, circa the mid-90's.

In case you didn't know already, this is Yigal Azrouel's look for spring. And, I like it. Just bring back more minimalism please. Tired of seeing roses.

so right

I wish more December covers sticked to the month. Take for example, German Vogue, which presents us with a real, snowy, white and little holiday vibe cover. So simple and effective.

And, Doutzen is just perfect. I sense that this girl will start replacing some other faces soon, since it was just confirmed that she will starring in a new Calvin Klein White Label campaign on TV.

limit

I really think there should be an acceptance border of airbrushing when it comes to covers. Just pay a close attention to Lily Donaldson's face.

freshness

I love this idea of layering cardigans. I think it's just genious.

We should thank emerging designer, Victor Glemaud who started his men's collection this past September in Paris. What's the best part? Prices are affordable and he will show more talented work in February in New York. Can't wait.

Oh, and also, it doesn't hurt that one was assistant to Patrick Robinson. More of Victor here.

photo:

queerty.com

i'm skinny, you're skinny, we're skinny

I am getting very tired of hearing about skinny models or actresses or whatnot. So, the last person we all need to express such statements is the one who started the trend. Twiggy, the 60's legendary model, declares that Hollywood is responsible for the the whole skinny trend.

I just don't get it. Being the way you are whether skinny or round or average or overweight is one person's choice. If one wants to be skinny, go ahead... why do people think everyone will follow Nicole Richie or Micha Barton? After all, it's a free country where diet pills are even advertised on newsstands.

And, Twiggy, we love you but don't you think this is little contradictory?

kate, the singer

I found this quite interesting the other day. I think that Simon is correct saying whether Kate can sing or not. I mean, look at all the other artist who claim themselves to be good singers when in fact they are not. Let's just start with Britney... and all the way to Nancy Sinatra. History shows that if you have power image, famous boyfriend, a group of editors and reviewers behind you, everything is possible.

So, please, let this be true. Because I can already see a duet with Kate and Pete being named the most chic video of the beginning of the century.

owl

"My natural biorhythm is to sleep until 5 p.m. and then have a cocktail."

-Tom Ford

Gotta love him. More on Mr.Ford here.


photo: style.com

purity

You know one is a good model when she still looks beautiful and stunning in a Halloween costume.


photo:
style.com

snap

Nevermind Piere Berrge's spicy comments. Yves' lifelong partner has a constant "thing" against Tom Ford, from the way he expresses himself to his designs for YSL. Most recently, in an article regarding gays/being closeted/hetero in the fashion industry, Mr. Berrge concluded:

"I'm not publicly airing one's sexuality in public. For instance, I think it's gross, whether I'm a homosexual or not, when Tom Ford talks in a magazine about watching a porno film and beating off. It doesn't shock me. I'm not a puritan, it's not that. It's just gross."

Hah.

photo:

style.com

fashion sight of the day: mariacarla

Who: Leggy, doll/rocker girl Mariacarla Boscono

Where: Ralph Lauren Men, West Village, NY

Company: Long haired mid-twenties man

Look: Chiffon vintage printed skirt, black blouse, croc knee high boots, army long canvas coat with rolled sleeves. It seems she is brunette again, and unfortunately looked little tired. She was very quiet, and had a very birdie vibe about her. Still, she is divine.

not for everyone

In my opinion, in order to be a well informed and top of the game person, you need to read and hear everything even if you don't like it. That means reading articles about Wal-Mart, going to your local Old Navy and have your eyes open for anything that includes mass apparel. Now, I know this is a bore for the fashion people, but how can you understand current fashion if you don't know what the masses are wearing? Therefore, I find it interesting to read about the big, big stores. So, it came as no surprise when the biggest and wealthiest of stores made a mistake regardsing their merchandise selection.

The skinny jean fever, which started in the spring have taken over everywhere, including the giant Wal-Mart. Then, what is the error? Well, let's face it, skinnies are not for everyone. I have always doubted that the average fashion conscious customer would pick a pair of skinnies immediately, even if they are on sale for $16.94. According to a report in WWD, skinny jeans "did not connect with many customers". Also, "they are clearing out skinny jeans from some stores". No wonder they are on sale.

at the cinema

Being a nonstop visual, artistic person can be tiring sometimes. But in a good way. Especially, when I watch films, I usually get caught up too deep with details and questioning myself if something I just saw can be a possible inspiration, theme, or simply connected to a subject that I might know of.

Films can be an excellent source of inspiration and have been for a great number of designers. I should seriously start counting how many times critics have made references to "Breakfast at Tiffany's'", "Belle de Jour", "Desperately Seeking Susan" and so on. After the movies, actresses become next "victims" of reference, because I think that if the actress was not suitable for the role, then the way she wears and handles the clothes in the movie would be just wrong. I mean, can you imagine anyone other than Catherine Deneuve wearing that iconic YSL coat and Roger Vivier flats?

All of this brings me to film posters. I have always been a big of them. Although, I do not collect them (they look quite dorm style to me when hung on walls), film posters can sometimes break or make a film for me. And no, I am not vein. This notion is being described by the fact that there have been some very good films with not so impressive posters such as "The Swimming Pool". But, this post is about good posters, so I am going to tell you which poster scored the highest score this month. It is "The Good German" with George Clooney and Cate Blanchett. It is such a refreshing idea to use vintage 40's style for the poster when they could easily go with something more generic. They took inspiration from "Casablanca", although they have inserted some current time elements such as very sharp image of Cate. But, at the end you need to keep it current.

non stop talent

Tom Ford, the king of sex appeal and unforgettable ad campaigns, lands his official web site. I love the entire vamp/vixen theme, which reminds me of the supple 50's noir/glam era. The black background, capital lettered titles without spaces between them is such a signature of what Tom stand for. While I still think he is one of the best designers of our time, he never forgets that fashion is business. And, what sells better than fragrances?

oversize

I have been playing with the oversize vibe for some time now, and I really like how these two peeps incorporated it. That vintagey looking jacket, which looks like size large, gives an excellent contrast to the straigt cut jeans/pant. And the color just pops out. Done just right.

photos:

facehunter.blogspot.com

karl's view on anorexia

Mr. Lagerfeld's idea of key concepts at Chanel s/s 07:

"The statement is about legs, and when the collection is about legs you have to show a lot of leg. The statement was this proportion, this lightness. The clothes are light; the girls are not anorexic, but the clothes are."

photo: style.com

icon

I just always love Self Service covers. They are very inspirational, original and one of a kind.

The iconic Shalom Harlow looks amazing together with sharp Raquel Zimmermann on both covers of the new Self Service. Shot by Inez & Vinoodh, I am loving the whole 80's vibe and the cut offs with one eye.

And just notice the right color of rep lipstick on Raquel that virtually matches with everything. Ge-nious.

like

I have never been one of those people who complain about US Vogue, criticize their talent or trash talk about the fashion content in the magazine. I believe that they are on target for what's happening in fashion combined with the idea of keeping in mind that this magazine is for the wide American audience. We live in a celebrity driven society where people do more voting for American Idol finalists than for a president. Therefore, editors are sort of forced to put celebrities on cover because magazines are businesses that need to generate money.

And this is the reason many people do not understand. US Vogue cannot be as forward as Italian or French Vogue. Yes, there was a time when US Vogue was in the same artistic category as its European editions, but times change. Of course, that there can always be some changes and improvements, but we all know that people in America have different approaches and views of fashion than in Europe. Which brings me to the new edition of US Vogue. I just flipped through it and what really caught me was the stellar cover. Some might call it boring, but I like it. A lot. It's powerful and strong--just like Cate Blanchett is. Also, I like the editorial with her as it shows some good photos. And after a long time of absence from US Vogue, Kate Moss has a very nature, playful, free spirited editorial shot by Bruce Weber. Enjoy.

see it

You know that you've been doing something great if Barney's decides to sell your collection. That happened to Mooka Kinney, a design duo from New York.

What appealed to the buyers? The fine detailing, such as figure shaped buttons? Or perhaps the irresistible prints such as swans? Whatever it was, their collection of innocent and oh-so-girly dresses is just stellar. I am excited to see their progress and new designs in the future.

Check out all the pretty pretty dresses here.


photo:
mookakinney.com

eva and eva

Eva Green, the lead girl of the new, upcoming James Bond movie is getting more and more of my attention. I am surprised that she is not getting much publicity in the U.S. And she should. She has stunning eyes, great facial bone structure, looks very chic and attends shows such as Louis Vuitton. Could Eva be a new fashion muse?

is it really???

You know how many people say that designers are usually influenced by current art exhibitions, political events, people...Hm, is that so?

This thought occurred to me yesterday as I was looking for new art shows opening this weekend. Instantly, I thought of the major costume exhibit this year, "Anglomania", and how there were not any influences of it at the spring collections. What happened? Did designers just simply ignored the Brits, or was it a simple blockage?

at the valley

we love seeing genious designers at the disco

roses and romance are much needed

a crown for everyone

metallics are here to stay

behind a legend's mind

Did you know that many one of the Helmut's Newton photos containing long nails, came as inspiration from a lady who pumped gas in LA? She had blue nails.

Did you know that Helmut Newton did not like traveling for his background inspiration and always found something that worked within the place he was staying?

And why many photos have pools in them?

Did you know that... well, if you'd like to know more, then rent or buy this DVD on Helmut Newton. It's just genius.

I certainly enjoyed this DVD since he is one of my favorite photographers . What attracts me most to his work is the combination of strong sexualityand dramatic directness. His relaxed and unpretentious state is presented by the fact that he worked with one assistant and two cameras only. Declaring that most photographers are boring, this documentary gives you an idea of a legend who was exclusively concentrated on his own work. Mr. Newton liked placing his models in scenes that are not associated with fashion or luxury. Intensity is such a key element in his work, which is instantly recognized. And, of course today he is widely copied by many famous photographers, who try to appear original and distinct but deep down we all know who they had a mind.